A while back, while searching blogs, I came across this shadow box snowman at poppies at play:
I adored it. Some how, some way, I had to have my own. I went everywhere looking for shadow boxes: DI, Joann's, Roberts, Michaels, but they had nothin'. So I went out to my garage determined to make my own. FAIL. So after batting my eyes at my husband, he made the boxes for me.
Cut list:
1x4 cut in half (I had some left over from my bed)
(4) 8.5" square mitered pieces- bottom box
(4) 6.5" square mitered pieces- middle box
(4) 4.5" square mitered pieces- top box
(3) squares of beadboard cut to the size of each square- back of each box
(1) nose cut out of beadboard
Nail each side together to form a square and staple the back on. Paint everything white, disstress, then apply some stain or glaze wait a minute then wipe off. Glue some buttons in the middle box, glue the nose and two eyes in the top box. To make sure it was stable, I hot glued the boxes together. Display.
Here is Mr. Snowman before I added eyes and a scarf. I kinda liked him like this, but my sister said he needed eyes and a scarf. I thought about some arms, but that would require a tree which I don't have. Mr. Snowman all done up...
Visit Poppies At Play for her more detailed tutorial. Found HERE.
Have you ever head of the store in Murray, Utah called THE WOOD CONNECTION? I love this place. I could go broke if I shopped there everyday. Go HERE for their website. Anywho, this is were I got my "WINTER" wood letters. I painted them and jazzed them up. So cute! My winter display is complete!
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
A few house projects
Over the past month we have completed a couple of house projects.
First up: The Spare Bedroom:The two above pictures show the prep work before painting. I wanted my stripe to be 22.5 inches wide, so my husband used the laser level and taped off the stripe. Once he was done, I painted the inside edges of the tape with our base color. This seals the tape, so your other color will not bleed through. Next, I painted. Wait until the paint is semi dry, then peel the tape off. If you wait until it is dry, you might take your paint with it...
Look how awesome the room is now! Even the cat likes being in there.
Second up, The Hall Bath:
Before shots. Don't mind the yellow. I thought yellow would make the bathroom cheery, but it looked horrendous, so I went with blue.
We trimmed the wall and the mirror. I wanted a ledge, so Matt nailed a board on top of the other trim. Matt caulked, and I painted.
Ah, much better...
First up: The Spare Bedroom:The two above pictures show the prep work before painting. I wanted my stripe to be 22.5 inches wide, so my husband used the laser level and taped off the stripe. Once he was done, I painted the inside edges of the tape with our base color. This seals the tape, so your other color will not bleed through. Next, I painted. Wait until the paint is semi dry, then peel the tape off. If you wait until it is dry, you might take your paint with it...
Look how awesome the room is now! Even the cat likes being in there.
Second up, The Hall Bath:
Before shots. Don't mind the yellow. I thought yellow would make the bathroom cheery, but it looked horrendous, so I went with blue.
We trimmed the wall and the mirror. I wanted a ledge, so Matt nailed a board on top of the other trim. Matt caulked, and I painted.
Ah, much better...
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Colette With Wings Upholstered Bed/Headboard
A while ago, I came across an awesome blog called high-heelfootinthedoor. She found a bed called Colette at Crate and Barrel that she loved.
But, like me, she didn’t want to spend lots of money on a bed, so she and her husband made a plan and made a bed just like it.
You can find that great tutorial HERE.
Since she already made a tutorial, and it was what we followed to make our bed, I won’t repost that. What this tutorial is about is a WINGBACK WPHOLSTERED HEADBOARD. For some reason, I love the look of wingback headboards. Up until this point I have always associated wingback anything with old people. I changed my mind once I googled “wingback upholstered headboard” There are some pretty awesome headboards out there. I was inspired by this one:
Once I saw the greatness of WINGBACK, I had to have one. So I went back to Google and searched for “wingback upholstered headboard tutorial.” NOTHING. What? NO tutorial? How could this be? Isn’t there someone out there that wants one just as much as I do?
Enter The Husband. The man who brings my crazy ideas to life. I told him that for my birthday this year I wanted The Colette bed with wings. (No this is not an Always brand ad or product ;0))
So off to Stock Building Supply we went. There we bought the lumber for the bed. We had to change the lumber list a little. Here’s how it breaks down:
Stock Building Supply shopping list:
(2) pine 1x10x16- cut in half -$35.74- side of bed
(1) white fir 2x4x8 -$2.18- middle support
(9) pine 1x4x12- $43.56- middle and side slats
(1) MDF slab ¾ thick 4x8- $38.50- headboard
(2) pine 1x4x16- cut in half -$14.08- middle support inside side of bed
Walmart shopping list:
(2) twin size convoluted foam mattress pad -$25.88
(1) queen size convoluted foam mattress pad -$19.94
(4) 42X84 Mainstays textured foam-back energy efficient curtain panel- $59.68
You can use fabric. This wasn’t the most economical route to go, but it worked out pretty well. My sister said the fabric I used looks like an old man suite. I agree, but I think it looks good.
One panel for two long sides of bed,
½ panel for foot of bed
1 ½ panel for wings
1 panel for back of headboard
Joann’s shopping list:
(4) aluminum cover button kit- size ¾”. Make sure that you get one that that the fabric covering kit inside. They were BOGO $7.01
Hobby Lobby shopping list:
(1) extra long needle (Joann’s didn’t have them) $3.49- for the tufting of the headboard.
Home Depot shopping list:
(4) 3” nuts and bolts – these are for attaching the headboard to the frame
(4) brackets- these are for attaching the wings to the headboard
(4) legs for the bed
(4) top plates the attach the feet to the headboard.
WINGBACK HEADBOARD TUTORIAL:
Make a pattern for the type of wing you want. We traced it on cardboard and cut it out.The widest point of our wing was 11 inches. So we traced the pattern on(2) 11in wide by 4ft high MDF sheets.Using a jig saw, Matt cut out both wings.Place the wing on the outside edge of the head board. Next, Matt determined where he wanted the brackets to go. Three inches down from the top he put the bracket on the MDF and drilled holes in the where the bracket holes were, then screwed screws into those pre-drilled holes. He did the same thing 3 inches up from the bottom. Repeat on the other side.Then he pre-drilled holes where the bolts go. Two through the back in the corners then one though each wing though the bed fame. Make sure it is toward the bottom, so your mattress doesn’t hit them.Here is the bed all put together. We followed the tutorial for the bed and headboard. Follow my tutorial for the wings.
At this point, Matt unbolted everything and we carried the bed into the house, then the headboard. Leave the wings attached to the headboard.
Follow the Colette Bed tutorial on how to upholster the bed.
These pictures speak for themselves on how to attach the foam to the headboard.
We decided to make slipcovers for the wings. We figured this would be the easiest route to go. Use the cardboard pattern to trace the wing onto the fabric. Since we didn’t have enough fabric for one of the wings, we had piece the fabric together. I don’t even notice the seam. DONOT sew on the marker line. Add 1 1/2 inches to the line. We measured out 1.5 inches and made dots. This compensates for the foam.Sew on the dotted line.Cut off excess fabric then cut notches so the fabric will lay right.Slip the wing cover on the wing and tuck, pull and smooth until the fabric lays right, then staple.
Here is what the headboard and wings looks like after it has been stapled.Tuck, pull and smooth the fabric for middle of the headboard until the fabric lays right, then staple in the crease at the sides. Make sure the staples don’t show.If you want your headboard tufted then you need to decide on a pattern. I wanted it staggered. Drill holes big enough for a needle to pass through. I found a random tutorial on how to do this.Finished!
Good thing you predrilled everything, because it makes this next step easy. Attach the headboard back onto the bed-frame.Now it’s time to step back and salivate because your new bed is awesome!
I love it! Thanks to Matt and my sister for all your help!
Now I am on the hunt for the perfect bedding and pillows…
If you make one of these beds, I want to see! Shoot me an email...
Monday, November 1, 2010
Beadboard Turkeys
Joke: What happened when the turkey got into a fight?
----find the answer at the end of the post ;0)
All jokes aside, this was a pretty fun craft. While surfing the web, I came across some really cute turkey ideas. I found one HERE that I really loved. Taking that idea, I adapted it into my own.
1. I used a router to cut the breadboard in a half circle (more like a half oval…) for the back of the turkey.2. Using a scroll saw, I cut out the turkey bodies. I free handed a pattern for the body. (click on the first picture for the pattern)3. I then sanded the bodies and breadboard.4. I painted, then distressed the sides of the breadboard and the bodies.5. I made my own glaze mix- 1/2 Behr's glaze and 1/2 dark brown paint, then I coated the breadboard with the glaze. I let it sit for a minute, then I wiped it off with a paper-towel. 6. For the legs, I used a dowel. Make sure they are the same length. For the feet, I wanted to have two separate feet, but I thought that would make the turkey unstable, so I cut out triangles out of 2X4's. One triangle per turkey.7. Drill holes in the feet and in the bottom of the body of the turkey. Make sure the holes lined up. Use wood glue to secure the dowels in the 2x4.8. Paint the feet9. Distress the legs and feet, then coat with glaze then wipe off. (I used stain because I ran out of glaze)10. I used black carpet nails for the eyes and a wooden triangles I had on had for the beak. 11. I Glued the body onto the breadboard and let it dry, then glued the legs into the holes I drilled in the body. I also cut the red dangley thing out of red felt and glued it next to the beak.There you have it- your very own turkeys!
Answer: He got the stuffing knocked out of him.
----find the answer at the end of the post ;0)
All jokes aside, this was a pretty fun craft. While surfing the web, I came across some really cute turkey ideas. I found one HERE that I really loved. Taking that idea, I adapted it into my own.
1. I used a router to cut the breadboard in a half circle (more like a half oval…) for the back of the turkey.2. Using a scroll saw, I cut out the turkey bodies. I free handed a pattern for the body. (click on the first picture for the pattern)3. I then sanded the bodies and breadboard.4. I painted, then distressed the sides of the breadboard and the bodies.5. I made my own glaze mix- 1/2 Behr's glaze and 1/2 dark brown paint, then I coated the breadboard with the glaze. I let it sit for a minute, then I wiped it off with a paper-towel. 6. For the legs, I used a dowel. Make sure they are the same length. For the feet, I wanted to have two separate feet, but I thought that would make the turkey unstable, so I cut out triangles out of 2X4's. One triangle per turkey.7. Drill holes in the feet and in the bottom of the body of the turkey. Make sure the holes lined up. Use wood glue to secure the dowels in the 2x4.8. Paint the feet9. Distress the legs and feet, then coat with glaze then wipe off. (I used stain because I ran out of glaze)10. I used black carpet nails for the eyes and a wooden triangles I had on had for the beak. 11. I Glued the body onto the breadboard and let it dry, then glued the legs into the holes I drilled in the body. I also cut the red dangley thing out of red felt and glued it next to the beak.There you have it- your very own turkeys!
Answer: He got the stuffing knocked out of him.